Let’s start by saying I am biased. This is a wonderful little restaurant. It is, however, not perfect. Yet.
The growing pains are evident.
The concept – light, healthy food with exquisite wines.
I shall neither fall into the trap of introducing Texture by way of talking about the wonderful combination of Icelandic (the chef:
Agnar Sverrisson
) and French (the sommelier: Xavier Rousset) nor talk about blue eyes, youthfulness and a lot of other stuff – the website will show you all.
As oft the way, I'll draw on my learned American restaurant critics’ approach, and the rule of three (visits) affords me the authority to talk about the dishes, great wine and service.
Is it a marriage in heaven; well, the cliché of time will only tell is apt.
I arranged to meet a friend in Texture's champagne bar. A perfect setting for a private conversation. Texture is housed in a light, high-ceiling, Georgian style property. White walls, cornices with wonderful decorative designs, and large rectangular windows allowing plenty of natural light.
Welcomed always, by a great bunch of professional front of house staff. Xavier extended the welcome with a little chat about his recent tasting for Decanter. Some 80 wines. Wow. Was his palette numb I quizzed – yes came the retort. Poor chap. How do they survive these sessions - tips: patience, slowness, bread, plenty of water and more time. Phew.
My guest arrives. Xavier ready to the pour.
It’s Blanc de Blancs all round, bien sur!
Mesnil, one of the more popular & gorgeous chardonnay-based champagnes and no surprises here. Except the glasses. I would describe them simply as a flute glass with a bulbous top. Why? very unusual. Xavier agrees, adding “… my guests simply get more champagne from this style of glass… and why not…”. Ok. My ears cringe and I already fear consultants are en route to advise efficiency measures. Ssssssh Xavier.
Chat. More chat. My guest is pretty interesting. More chat. Natural light, dusk and some more of those wonderful tiny chardonnay bubbles, we are set for dinner.
I know the perfect table. No, not telling.
The dining area is small and the tables are sufficiently well set apart that most tables are in good positions. And I am still not telling. Acoustics are fine, too.
Although only a recent encounter, I had noted my guest maintains a healthy lifestyle; perhaps, Texture was a perfect choice afterall.
We opted for a 5-course Scandinavian tasting menu.
Bowled over, again, by the fantastic amuse bouche of green pea soup. Still at a loss for superlatives, the texture, flavours and just sheer simplicity of this dish is "phenomenal". It is pea and mint. Cold. Icy. Soup-like. Brilliant.
Salmon and dill followed. Whilst the salmon flakes would have separated with a puff of wind, and the dill subtle, one has come to accept these dishes as everyday (with Heston Blumenthal having set the standard using water baths and the sous-vide, slow cooking method). Tut.
Wines are good. Xavier is modest and brilliant. He’ll pair the wines with food, magically.
Icelandic cod with chorizo had perhaps a few too many additional flavours, textures. Lovely micro-flowers - cute. An interesting spicy Argentinean red to compete with the chorizo was a talking piece. Yet, neither my guest nor I (after numerous text messages) can recall the label.
T
he pre-dessert and dessert were too similar to comment on; pity. One credit is due here for the fantastic strawberry granita.
Tokaji.
Coffee.
Taxi and home.
Love Texture. And hijacking my interesting guest’s words “… tad repetitive, perhaps a slight identity crisis…trying too hard…” it will improve.
